Looking after a hamster or gerbil

Housing

Your hamster needs a fairly big and roomy cage. In fact, there is no such thing as a cage that is ‘too big’ for a hamster as they love to just explore and run around. Ideally, a cage that is multi-level is perfect as this adds interest to their environment and gives them more places to hide, explore and play. The cage should be made of wire with a plastic tray bottom as wooden cages can be chewed through!

It is vital that your hamster or gerbil is kept indoors, away from draughts or direct sunlight. Their cage also shouldn’t be placed next to something that gives off continuous noise like a television or washing machine due to their sensitive hearing. Try and purchase your new pet’s cage before bringing him home, as this means you can put him straight in keeping the stress levels for him to a minimum.

The cage should be cleaned out thoroughly every week, and soiled bedding removed every day. Hamsters can catch diseases and illnesses from a dirty cage. In the summer months cleaning is especially important to avoid attracting flies. In the wet winter months, sometimes the bedding can go mouldy so particular attention to this should be paid here too.

Exercise

Hamsters and gerbils love exercising, and need at least 3-4 hours a day. If you have a wheel, make sure it is big enough that their back is not bent when they are inside it. It should also have a solid floor as rungs can cause damage to feet and tails. They also love climbing so hanging some thin rope is ideal for them to use and gnaw on. You can even make an exercise yard for your pet by putting some bedding into a cardboard box and adding some tubes to run through and twigs to gnaw on and hide under.

Food

In the wild, foraging and munching on food takes up the majority of a hamster’s time, so rather than giving the food all at once each day, make it fun for them by hiding it around the cage. This will occupy them and prevent them getting bored.

Does anyone else have tips for occupying a hamster! Send in your comments below.

How to wash your dog

Dogs rarely enjoy the bathing process but frankly, if you can smell your dog coming before you can see him, it is time for a wash.

First of all, gather the equipment you need and put it into the bathroom. This will include your doggie shampoo, a brush or comb and plenty of old towels. You may even want to include a hairdryer if you don’t want a semi-wet dog running around your house. Then you need to find the dog in question. Bring him into the bathroom and close the door so he cannot escape!

It is a good idea to brush through the dog’s coat before a wash. Not only will he love it but you can remove any bits of debris that have got stuck like leaves, twigs or even sticky bits that are matting the fur. You can also use this time to inspect for any signs of skin or coat problems. Once this has been done thoroughly, place your dog in the tub.

The best way to wet him is to use a shower head, however if this is not possible then filling up the tub with warm water and using a jug is possible too. Make sure you avoid your dog’s eyes and inner ears when you are wetting his fur. Due to a difference in pH levels between humans and dogs, you shouldn’t use human shampoo on your dog as it could irritate the skin, so make sure you have a special dog shampoo to hand. Lather him up, and if you are using a flea treatment, leave it on for the prescribed amount of time.

When it is time for rinsing, use the shower head or jug to thoroughly remove all traces of the shampoo. This process should take twice as long as applying it. Be careful not to wash the shampoo into ears and eyes which will sting and irritate your dog. Once you are satisfied it has all gone, allow your dog one big shake whilst he is still in the tub and then remove him. Use the towels to dry him off as much as possible. You can use the hairdryer to completely dry the fur if you wish but make sure the setting is not too high.

Your dog will enjoy being toweled down, and may even forgive you for washing him! Do any of you have any specials tricks on how to wash your dog? Send in your comments below.

Visit VioVet today for Online Pet Medication, Pet Food and Pet Store Items.

Is your pet in pain?

Unfortunately, because animals are unable to tell us if they are in pain or where it is hurting, pet owners have to be particularly vigilant at watching for changes in behaviour as this is the only clue we are given. Because animals are quite good at masking pain and often do so until it is no longer possible to hide, it is often only the very subtlest of changes that occur which makes it especially important (not to mention difficult) to notice them.

There are a wide variety of ways the suffering can be communicated to us. If your normally placid dog becomes a little aggressive, this could be a sign of pain. If your normally energetic pet seems lethargic, they could be trying to tell us something. Look out for any noticeably unusual signs such as restlessness, hiding, holding an unusual posture, lack of appetite, decreased grooming (in cats) or forgetting all house training! Any of these could be a sign that your pet needs a trip to the vet for some medication.

Other signs are constant licking or chewing at a particular area of the body, whining or whimpering constantly, seeking more affection than usual or flattening their ears against their head. If you do notice any of these symptoms and are worried, you should contact your veterinarian for advice on what to do.

Animals feel pain just the same as humans do, and they do not benefit from it one bit. Additional stress to an animal has shown to increase their pain levels, so keeping your pet in a calm and soothing environment is very important when they are suffering. Never give an animal a pain killer designed for a human, as they can be poisonous for a pet and do a lot more harm than good, and always make sure the medication prescribed by your vet is continued throughout the allotted time frame. Do not finish the course early, even if your pet looks better.

Have any of you any information about what to do if your pet is in pain? How can you tell if your furry friend is even in pain? Send in your comments below.

Visit VioVet today for Online Pet Medication, Pet Food and Pet Store Items.

How to keep cats off your table

Cats are curious creatures and that is why you often see them in rather peculiar places in your home. Jumping onto kitchen counters and tables can be a problem, particularly if there is food around. There are a few things you can do to ‘train’ your cat to not do this.

Every time your cat jumps up somewhere they are not supposed to, give them a little squirt with a water pistol or a spray bottle. At the same time say ‘no’ in a firm voice, and eventually they will get the message.

Another trick is to give your cat a gentle flick behind the ear. It won’t hurt them, but they will eventually begin to understand that they are doing something they are not supposed to. Always make sure you give a determined ‘no’ at the same time.

Of course, sometimes your cat is too fast, and by the time you have a flick or a water pistol to hand, they are long gone. In this instance try and make a loud noise such as by banging saucepan lids together. This is just as effective and will make sure the problem is stopped in no time at all.

If you don’t like the sound of any of these techniques, there is a totally natural way to do it. The Coleus flower releases a scent that cats hate, so place a vase of them on your table or counter top. They also absolutely detest citrus, so a good amount of lemon or lime peel in a bowl with its juice can do wonders.

Do any of you have any tips for keeping your cats off your work surfaces and tables? Send in your comments below with all your handy hints!

Visit VioVet today for Online Pet Medication, Pet Food and Pet Store Items.

Cat Food

Cats do not eat like dogs or humans. They are obligate carnivores which means they are very strict carnivores and need high protein, low carbohydrate diets. They get their essential nutrients from animal tissue and their diet requires more than twelve of them which include vitamins, minerals, fatty acids and amino acids.

With cats, another important consideration is that too much of a good thing can become a bad thing in terms of food and nutrients. They should only ever receive the correct amount of nutrients, and not a single particle more. Supplements in fact which are sometimes given to dogs and of course taken by humans can be very dangerous for a cat and should only be given if approved by a vet.

Cats need clean, fresh water at all times. Water is essential to their health for removing waste products, regulating body temperature and digesting food among other things.

Dry food is a cheap option for cats, however the quality varies dramatically. Often dry foods can be quite unpalatable for cats and sometime digestion can be problematic. If you do use dry food, make sure the bag is kept in a cool, dry place and not use it once the expiration date has passed. Lengthy storage of dry food can diminish its nutrient levels and also cause the fats within the product to become rancid. Keeping food for months at a time should be avoided therefore if possible.

Semi moist foods are often more expensive but more palatable and digestible for cats. They are generally made primarily from meat or meat byproducts mixed with preservatives and ‘fillers’ such as soybean meal or cereals. Once the packet is open the product starts to deteriorate so it should be eaten quickly.

Canned food has the highest amount of moisture and for that reason is very beneficial. It is palatable and easily digestible and the variety is often enjoyed by cats. Canned food is of course the most expensive and although an unopened can lasts longer than any other type of food, once opened it needs to be refrigerated. It is important to still read the nutrition labels on canned food because some brands can be nutritionally incomplete. You are looking for the nutritional guarantee on the label.

Cost and health factors play a large part in what to provide your cat. If you want further information, don’t hesitate to contact your vet who can provide you with recommendations of suitable food. Have any of you got any insights into the best cat food available on the market? Send in your comments below.

Pet Passports

Interestingly, the idea of a pet passport was first introduced in Britain by the Monster Raving Loony Party. A pet passport is one aspect of ‘The Pet Travel Scheme’ (PETS) that allows your pet to travel freely between countries without having to undergo a period of time in quarantine which was the only way previously a pet could travel. The scheme first came into action in 2001 when several European countries signed up to it and agreed for pets to move travel freely between member countries. Since then countries like the US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand have all joined in and are now part of the scheme.

There are of course a number of requirements before your pet can travel, and the process is more complicated than simply acquiring a passport from your vet. Your pet needs to be fitted with a microchip, undergo a series of inoculations (notably rabies) and receive a certificate of health amongst other things before they can travel. The requirements for travel in or out of a country also vary between countries. If you want to travel with your pet, the best thing is explore all the requirements for the country you are leaving and country you are traveling to, online. Often your pet will also need a worm and flea treatment 24 hours before travel too.

Although initially the procedure may seem complicated, it is a vast improvement on previous hoops that had to be jumped through before your pet could travel.

Pet Vaccinations

Vaccinations are important for your pets to ensure life threatening diseases cannot be contracted and they are kept healthy and strong throughout their lives.

Young animals like puppies and kittens are particularly susceptible to diseases and illnesses and the necessary precautions should be taken to ensure their survival and boost their own natural immunity.

For dogs, the main diseases that can be vaccinated against are;

• Canine distemper (Hard pad)
• Canine parvovirus
• Infectious canine hepatitis
• Leptospirosis
• Canine parainfluenza virus
  
  

The main diseases that kittens and adult cats can be vaccinated against are;

• Feline Infectious Enteritis
• Cat Flu
• Feline Chlamydia
• Feline Leukaemia
  
  

For rabbits, the third most popular mammalian pet, vaccines available can prevent;

• Myxomatosis
• VHD (Viral Haemorrhagic Disease.)
  

The vaccines themselves work by stimulating antibodies to set up a ‘protective screen’ against the disease which kicks in when the animal has an encounter with it.

Vaccinations against these infectious diseases will prevent your pet from contracting or carrying any of them, although regular boosters are necessary throughout their lives to ensure this. Your vet can send you reminders of when the boosters are required but the primary round of vaccines should be administered around the 8 week point.

Special consideration should also be given to pets that regularly stay in kennels or catteries as they can be exposed to further infectious diseases such as tracheobronchitis (kennel cough), Bordetella bronchiseptica and cat flu. Additionally, pets that travel abroad can be susceptible to serious diseases such as Rabies, leishmaniasis (spread by sandflies), heartworm (spread by mosquitoes), babesiosis (spread by ticks), and ehrlichiosis (spread by ticks). Steps should be taken to prevent this from occurring.

Do any of you have any advice on vaccinating pets against illnesses and disease? Send in your comments below.